REDSHIFT ShockStop Suspension Seatpost for Bicycles

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While weight isn't as much a factor on a gravel bike as it is on a road machine, that is still quite a bit extra to be dragging around with you. The short answer is you need to find a good quality one. Some users have reported that some of the cheaper alternative suspensions seatposts don’t work as well at offer comfort which they should. When sitting sometimes they are constantly bobbing and this can get annoying. You want one that is more firm but still has that nice comfort factor.

For anything slow and off-road, you cannot beat a spring-damped seatpost. These posts are incredibly active underneath you and will allow you to stay seated on rough surfaces for MUCH longer.

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These seatposts are particularly active or ‘bobby’ in the initial part of their travel, so they tend to be better suited to rougher trails, rather than smoother roads – in my experience. The easiest way to determine your steerer tube size is to use a pair of calipers to directly measure the diameter or take your bike to the local bike shop and they will be able to measure it for you. I put an extra spring into the post, set the firmness to level 2 (for 90kg riders), and went for another test ride. Big surprise!

Apart from tire pressure the next thing when it comes to bike comfort and this is proven is seatposts. Responsible for a lot of your bikes overall comfort while riding. When compared to a frame, seatposts flex much more which equals better comfort. So at the end of the day you are probably better off getting a flexible seatpost then a new bike if comfort is the issue. Our first impression is that there is significantly less dynamic movement when compared to the original version. Since there was no need to set the sag, there is also very little upstroke like you would get on the original if you opted for a lot of sag. Honestly, the Pro post feels much more supportive and natural. There is definitely movement, and you feel it immediately, but it’s not as overwhelming. The stroke is also very progressive, so small bumps and vibrations are muted but the larger impacts are still felt. A plastic, magnetically secured fender can be removed to drop about 9 grams but is meant to keep dirt out of the linkage. After that experience, I knew that level 3 was the best setting for me. Yet each of you will have to do all of this fine-tuning on your own to find the best possible setup. Most seatposts have the diameter printed somewhere near the bottom of the post. You'll need to remove the seatpost from the bike frame (mark your existing seatpost height with a bit of tape before you remove it so you can replace it easily), and look for a number like 27.2, 30.9, or 31.6 (etc.). That is the diameter of the post. Another solution? You can remove the Fender entirely. Redshift points out that all of the pivots are sealed and mostly maintenance free – they even state that you should not add any grease or lubrication to the pivot bushings.The practical upshot is that you get a decent amount of travel and the Kinekt 2.1 is highly adjustable, but it ain't cheap." Rather than using a full-suspension bike (for comfort), you can fit a suspension seatpost to a hardtail and enjoy similar levels of comfort without the extra weight, price and complexity. 4 Reasons To Not Use Suspension Seatposts The Cane Creek eeSilk is less than 100 grams heavier than a high-quality aluminium seatpost. On the rough trail, the spring seatposts are, by a large margin, the most effective at mitigating vibrations (17-24% improvement when compared to a carbon seatpost).

At 150lbs, initially I went with their recommendation of the Main Spring only with preload at #3. This was way too soft in my opinion, especially for more spirited riding. The next step was to increase the preload with just the Main Spring. Eventually, I cranked it up to 4 which is the maximum recommended preload setting with just the main spring. It was better, but I found that it resulted in a ride that was still a little too active, and it was more prone to ‘topping out’ with a thud in certain situations. And what about long-term durability? Well, those elastomers definitely won’t last forever, although several years of regular use should be expected at the very least – and hopefully Redshift will keep replacements on hand for a long, long time. A bigger question mark is the pivots since they’re wholly exposed to the elements and much more difficult to replace, although Ahnert says that really hasn’t been an issue. Weight: at ca. 500 grams (claimed 497 grams for 27.2mm one), it's on the light side, compared to competition: 7 out of 10. And finally, the air seatpost improved things a bit (6% improvement) but clearly requires a higher bump force to activate than other suspension seatposts.Due to the vertical flexibility of 35 mm, it is suitable for almost any type of bike with a seat tube inner diameter of 27.2 mm Bikes with a larger diameter can be adjusted with an optional reduction sleeve. Then I built up a new gravel beast and thought, hey, why not upgrade the seatpost as well. I retired the Thudbuster and sprung for a Redshift (pun intended). I’ve been on it for a month now and there are no downsides. I’m 175# and this post is perfect. I run it slightly soft and it keeps me planted through the big hits and eliminates most of the medium chatter. Small stuttery garbage is gone. The return rate is immediate and so I’ve had no issues taking this bike on the concrete. Yesterday, on a whim, I took this bike on a group road ride and was in the front the whole time. I’ve experienced no penalty for running the Redshift post on the road! But it’s not perfect. It’s a spring-based suspension setup after all, so the saddle will move down and up on a bigger hit, and you really need to fine-tune the effect to get the most from your rides. And the installation could be a bit more user-friendly – but that’s a minor thing. The easiest way to determine your steerer tube size is to use a pair of calipers to directly measure the diameter or take your bike to the local bike shop and they will be able to measure it for you. Alternatively, most of the time a manufacturer will list this under their specifications in the Frame/Fork section. Make sure you are looking at the correct model year as these sizes can change year to year.