Posted 20 hours ago

Clarke Rotary Soil Sieve CRS400

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The mixing process – and the mixing of different soil types – can also be done with the rotary sieve. Also if you are unfortunate enough to have stony ground, you can sieve the stones and return the stone free soil to your garden. The children’s sandpit can also be regularly cleaned and sieved. The rotating drum is positioned perfectly so that the sieved material can fall into a wheelbarrow conveniently placed underneath the drum. Because the drum is positioned at an angle, the unwanted coarse material falls into a container placed behind the rotating drum. In this manner, both sieving and separating are performed at the same time.

The rotating sieve has been designed so that the feed entrance is totally free of any obstruction. Thus making the filling of the drum as comfortable as possible. With all three rims cable tied into place, begin lacing the mesh overlap together. A second person here will also help. Fix both ends with cable ties then begin work on the center rim. I used a length of timber to ensure this rim was evenly centered in the tube. It helped to have a second person assisting placing the cable ties from the outside while someone is reaching into the chamber...it's quite awkward. Pro tip: Begin your first cable tie at the edge of the mesh then continue around the mesh. I didn't do this (I began in the middle) and ended up with the mesh pulling in slightly. Happily it hasn't affected performance.You also want to plan a gradient for the soil etc to drift down. I can't tell you the exact angle I mounted my frame but it's probably 4 inches (100 mm) lower at the exit end. If you don't have a gradient, your sifted siftings will sit in the sifter! I cut a length of sheet metal to attach to the inside of the wheel rim. This probably helps to support the mesh but you may be able to get away without using it. I cut it 4 inches (100 mm) wide* then carefully removed the burrs with a file. I used the existing spoke holes in the rim to temporarily attach the sheet metal using lacing wire. I placed the motor and housing on a bench to establish direction of motor and size of belt I needed. Plan on a height that will allow a wheelbarrow to sit underneath from either the side or the rear (exit).

Limit the mesh overlap to maximum 2 inches (50 mm) as this double layer hinders filtered material from passing through. Pro tip: it's useful to hang the large drive vee belt around the tube prior to installing all of the castors. If you don't, you'll have to loosen your castors to install it later. The rear legs I made to swivel in three positions: pointed down with feet on the ground; pointed horizontal where they act as handles (think wheelbarrow); straight up for storage (though in hindsight this position probably won't be used). Yes, stub axles would have been tidier and prettier, but I took the simple option of welding the forks to the frame. This worked just fine. Place some timber under the frame to figure out your tipping/balance point and place the forks a little in front of this. Otherwise it could tip forward when being wheeled around or during use. Weld up the frame and place the tube inside so that mount points can be established for the castors.*

I placed my castors in such a way that if I want to remove the tube, I can easily wind the threads into the frame, thus opening up the gap and allowing the castor to be eased from the bicycle rim.

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